rv forum+what tape to attach foam boards

Topic: Foam to fiberglass glue

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Posted By: ogrer on 04/29/16 06:56am I had a leak and water accumulated under one side of the Bigfoot, in the overhang, over the side walls of the truck box.

The foam is saturated with water and the plywood backing panels for the tie downs are rotten.

So, I accept removed all of the kitchenette and floor. I have taken out the furnace and h2o heater.

I need to supersede the cream and the plywood backing panels.

My question is what is the best glue to fix the foam to the fiberglass. I am likewise thinking of blue foam over Styrofoam.

I still have to find the leak before I shut it back in.

Bob

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Bob & Jan

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Posted By: bighatnohorse on 04/29/16 07:19am Silicone. Used in the signage industry for years to adhere eps or extruded foam to annihilation.

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Posted By: narcodog on 04/29/16 07:45am When I repaid my Lance i used a 3M spray adhesive designed for cream. My of the adhesives will atomize foam. I as well used spray foam in some of the areas.

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Posted By: Photomike on 04/29/16 07:46am I just used some 3M high force 90 in a spray can for a project and it worked amazing. That stuff holds anything, only problem was that I wanted to glue everything around the house with information technology :-)

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2017 Ford Transit
EVO Electric bike
Advanced Elements Kayaks

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Posted By: covered carriage on 04/29/16 08:19am Advantage with silicone is that information technology volition bridge beyond gaps or dished areas to flat cream meliorate.

Self appointed engineer and carpenter.

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Posted By: HMS Beagle on 04/29/xvi 08:36am Bigfoot uses a spray contact adhesive. You want something that is somewhat resistant to softening with heat, and with solvents that do not melt the foam. Given that there is probably residual contact adhesive on the fiberglass, using the same type of production might be appropriate as other things may not stick well to it. Silicone would exist almost the bottom of my listing, it is not a very stiff adhesive and nevertheless will be hard to clean out information technology if comes loose, nothing at all stick to it. When boatbuilders utilize foam core, they will mix polyester of epoxy with fillers to thicken it, and so utilise a notch trowel to apply.

Blue foam (extruded polystyrene) is a meliorate option for a core cloth than bead board (expanded polystyrene). I don't know why Bigfoot changed - XPS is less expensive I judge.

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Bigfoot ten.4E, 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 2WD, Autoflex Ultra Air Ride rear suspension, Hellwig Bigwig sway bars forepart and rear

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Posted Past: silversand on 04/29/16 09:17am Beadboard (usually white, with little beads bound together) is EPS. Extruded polystyrene (bluish, pink, etc) is XPS.

You demand to do some serious research into using either EPS or XPS equally a SIP (in this example, the structure is the wall/camper trounce). In that location are very specific adhesives you tin can utilize (with a pigment roller, mop, or, via spray gun) to bond the EPS or XPS...some of the adhesives go on quite thick, and tin bridge "bowing" in camper structure shells, but, if y'all press (roll the SIP associates with the glue sandwich) or vacuum-bond the structural panel, the adhesive volition ooze out along the wall's border. Some of the agglutinative used in making Our Outfitter Mfg XPS-to-FRP structural walls oozed out during the vacuum bonding stage, and dried a 1/four inch thick (probably much thicker than a silicon bead!).

Good luck.

On the edit: i changed the give-and-take "bowling" to "bowing".

* This post was edited 04/29/16 09:33am by silversand *

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Silvery
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4 vi.0L Ext/LB Tow Package 4L80E Michelin AT2s| Outfitter Caribou

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Posted By: Kayteg1 on 04/29/xvi 09:17am Exterior construction glue in caulk will work also, but that thing needs days to dry.
If you are replacing insulation, retrieve most upgrading to polyurethane.
Non only R value is about 15% higher, but much stronger mechanically.

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Posted By: silversand on 04/29/xvi 09:28am Polyurethanes are interesting, however, likewise accept a look at XPS grades in the 600 type Vii to 1000 psi type 5 strength grade (no kidding; these panels are most like plywood). I think the Formular brand (Owens Corning?) are readily available. Practise your due diligence with all the products out in that location.

*disclosure: I exercise non piece of work for, nor own whatever position in any foam manufacturing industry

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Posted By: covered wagon on 04/29/16 09:38am I agree a good polyeurethane agglutinative caulk would be groovy if applied with beads one/2 inch autonomously. That would exist a no nonsense way of doing it.

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Posted Past: Reddog1 on 04/29/xvi x:15am Fortunately I accept non needed to glue the fiberglass on my TC. I would use the blue foam.

This link, Two Northern Lites with Cab over failing and Basement sides, might offer some help.

I would do a test section using Gorilla glue. It is available at most hardware stores. I would not use silicon.

For locating the leak, my get-go approximate would be the weep holes in the window frames. They get plugged and can let water in the TC. Some other place is the seal between the window frame and fiberglass.

Every TC I have owned has had window leaks at some fourth dimension. I have had to rebuild the wood within the walls in iii TCs due to the window leaks. On my 1988 Bigfoot (encounter photo), I apply butyl tape only (gluey on both sides-run into photo), and admittedly no silicone. That is what was used by the manufacture, and did but fine for xx years. The butyl tape is mutual at RV Supply stores, and I take heard it is available at Home Depot in the caulk area of the store.

I am having issues posting with photos. I volition try separating the photos from the mail.

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Posted By: Joe417 on 04/29/16 eleven:33am I've tried a lot of different types of adhesive and accept found polyurethane to be the nearly consistent in bonding skins back on. Moisture cured works fast. It bonds to wood, foam, and aluminum.

It besides expands and fills cracks betwixt the surfaces. So, if you use it, exist certain to clench the surfaces to prevent them from expanding more than you want.

Gorilla Glue is readily available.

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Joe & Evelyn

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Posted Past: Reddog1 on 04/29/sixteen eleven:40am

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Posted By: mydazeoff on 04/29/16 04:07pm I have used 3M Fastbond Contact Agglutinative 30-nf to brand similar repair. Purchased at Amazon.com. You should be able to find the data canvass on the 3M website.

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mydazeoff
Annapolis, Medico
Cedar Creek RLSA34, GMC3500HD Duramax

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Posted By: covered wagon on 04/29/16 08:02pm When I reset my windows I usually double the putty tape and screw the interior pressure trim band slowly allowing the putty to flow over all mating surfaces s assuasive an fifty-fifty clasp out of putty. Better to exercise this on warm days equally the putty record flows amend.

BTW, my NL camper now has the cabover stress bespeak bulges very small-scale on both sides that are talked well-nigh in the above link. It started concluding wintertime. I'm going to leave information technology for now to watch it grow, if they do. I recollect mine was repaired in the past when new because it does have plywood reinforcing behind the glass unlike others who say they do not.

An interesting annotation; 1 side was bulging much worse when used fulltime last winter, only has now shrunk in size to match the other side and are at present very minor.

* This post was edited 04/29/16 08:24pm by covered carriage *

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Posted By: Jack Spratt on 04/29/16 08:24pm Look in Home Depot/Lowes there is a cartridge adhesive specifically made for use with foam.

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Leprechaun 260 DSF
2017 Big Horn FL3750

'10 Xanthous Lab to keep us on our toes.

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Posted Past: ogrer on 04/30/16 04:59am Cheers for the replies.

I have gone shopping, bought some pressure level treated 1" deck boards, pink foam, gum, contact cement , butyl tape, proflex caulking and some fir plywood

The programme is to use gorilla gum to spike 1X2 on 16" centers for the connection to the bottom of the over hang. That will give me something to screw the floor to, and will likewise provide additional support through the expanse.

I picked upwardly water soluble contact cement, and I will use this to gum the "pink" foam in.

We have thoroughly soak the camper and have non found whatever leaks.

Bigfoot left a space along the corner, about 1" Ten 1", it looks similar a path to along any leakage or condensation, my estimate information technology is a style for the water to bleed out to the bleed holes in the rear.

I have to get the unit dorsum together, equally we are heading out, mid June for Alaska's Kenai. If you have been there y'all know it rains almost every day in the summer.

Once more thank you for the replies.

Bob

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Posted By: Reddog1 on 04/thirty/xvi 08:17am I strongly suggest you pull and re butyl tape all windows, making certain the tape goes over the edge of the frame and trim the excess later window frame screws are tightened. Trim excess with a plastic knife or something similar. If done correctly, you volition probably accept the record oozing out for a couple of years. Do not put any type of calk effectually the windows, record only.

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Posted By: ogrer on 04/thirty/16 08:21am On the same repair, the water heater was pulled, to practice the repair.

When it was out I noticed three types of caulking?

1. White Proflex on the outside
2. Greyness Butyl record on the mounting bezel
3. Looks like Clear Silicone on the bezel to heater frame.

The bezel looks like a crimped on stamping.

The heater is cleaned and painted, ready to go in, when I find out what is the third caulking.

The tertiary caulking was not in skillful shape, and also was used the seal the folded corners of the water heater frame.

I am thinking this could take been my water source.

Bob

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Posted By: ogrer on 04/30/sixteen 08:24am Is it hard to pull the windows? I would like to do them too.

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Posted By: Reddog1 on 04/30/16 08:57am I see no reason to use 3 dissimilar caulks. On the water heater flange I would, and do. use butyal tape only. Same is truthful on the windows.

The windows I have removed are pretty easy to remove. But remove the screws from the within flange. Have someone on the outside catch the window while you gently posh information technology outward. Your Bigfoot window flange will look like the one in the photo I posted. It will be sealed with butyal tape. Wait closely at information technology, and I bet y'all will see where a bad job was done on the factory caulk.

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Posted Past: covered wagon on 04/xxx/16 09:02am Not hard simply you demand someone exterior that can catch the window when pushing information technology out of the opening. That is subsequently y'all remove the screws from the interior trim ring flange.

One betoken or place I had a leak that was very difficult to locate was the propane compartment door hinge. The hinge is located inside the putty record and leaked thru the hinge mounting rivets. The compartment door frame did not leak but was the hinge. I establish information technology subsequently two years of not knowing where water was coming from by gently squirting the hose at various spots on the camper, starting at the bottom and slowly working my way upward from the lesser with a trickle coming out the hose. I had someone inside watching for when the leak showed itself.

I'one thousand besides president of the leakers clan.

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Posted Past: covered railroad vehicle on 04/30/16 09:15am BTW, Gorilla glue is likewise brittle and cannot hold if even slightly flexed. I won't use information technology as I've experienced it come up autonomously from simply temperature/ humidity changes.

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Posted By: Reddog1 on 04/30/16 09:18am

covered wagon wrote:

... I'one thousand also president of the leakers association.

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Posted By: covered wagon on 04/thirty/16 09:48am Thought you might like that.

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Posted By: bigfootford on 04/xxx/16 10:10am Practise the windows too for sure. I saw Reddog1's leak and the window... Read below about tightening the new windows a bit when the rig is new or if you lot replace the calking seal of the window.

They are not like shooting fish in a barrel to get the quondam Butyl record to release. A conscientious application of heat from a heat gun will aid soften if needed. Then using putty knifes and screwdrivers to gently pry the windows away.

When reinstalling the windows put them into position without any record applied and encounter if the window volition sit flush in the opening. The frame and drinking glass is pretty ridiged and so if it does non fit utilize extra tape. I had ane window in my Bigfoot that did not fit flush. It was leaking from the factory!
That window was the passenger rear window.

When screwing the window in place practice not tighten the screws all the fashion downwardly. Tighten them down similar torquing a rim or the head on a motor. Do the final tightening watching the Butyl Tape as information technology begins to ooze out from the frame. Make sure it ooze'due south out all the style around. One time it has oozed a 1/16" or so all the mode around that is plenty tightening.

After about 3-six mos you should become around and give the screws nearly a 1/2 -one plow depending on how tight they feel. Anybody should do this on a new camper! You may have to practice it again after about a year or and then. If you practise this a couple of times your windows will never leak.

Trim the excess Butyl tape carefully with a razor.

Jim

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2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision xix.5, Mich 245/70XDS2's, Bilstein shocks, air numberless/pump, EU2000, PD 9260,Lifeline 100ah, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ brandish panel, Trimetric, Delorme/laptop, Holux gps rec,led lights, Wave-3 oestrus.

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Posted By: ogrer on 05/02/16 11:53am How do I remove the window dressing?

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Posted By: ogrer on 05/02/16 11:55am Pictures explain it!

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Posted By: bigfootford on 05/02/16 12:45pm

ogrer wrote:

Pictures explain it!

Wow, which side is this on... I can non orient myself.. Drivers forepart?

Deplorable....

jim

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Posted By: bigfootford on 05/02/xvi 12:58pm

ogrer wrote:

How do I remove the window dressing?

Should exist small screws with those square drive metric POS's. Located up within of the height ane..
Gotta look upwards within. The sides are on the very lesser, toenailed in.

Jim

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Posted By: ogrer on 05/02/16 03:54pm Cheers

Constitute the screws ii on the inside top, 5 on the outside elevation and the two toe nailed under the material and the lesser.

The window is r & r with new tape. The window sill showed no signs of water entry

Weepers are make clean. My hands are now really grimy. Bigfoot used black butyl tape. Next time I volition wear gloves.

Bob

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Posted By: bigfootford on 05/02/xvi 06:48pm

ogrer wrote:

Thanks

Found the screws 2 on the within top, 5 on the outside top and the two toe nailed under the material and the bottom.

The window is r & r with new tape. The window sill showed no signs of water entry

Weepers are clean. My easily are now actually grimy. Bigfoot used black butyl tape. Next fourth dimension I will clothing gloves.

Bob

The windows in the overhead bed area can leak. The water will follow the foam seams and then finally piece of work it's mode down.... Who knows where it will finish upward.... I had an over head lite leak years ago on my BF.... Caught it early but the leak was inside the side bed cabinet, the middle low-cal was the one that was leaking.

Jim

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Posted Past: ogrer on 05/19/16 10:49am Thanks for the help.

All of the repairs are done, and the TC is fix to roll.

I did accept a pressure examination done, and found some minor leaks in the clearance lights and ladder attachment points.

Once again thanks.

Bob

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Posted By: Reddog1 on 05/23/16 08:13am ogrer, check your PMs.

Wayne

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